I have had alot of people ask me the proper way to set the spool tension. One thing I have noticed while cleaning and tuning reels is that it is obvious that most folks use the spool tension knob to control casting. Although this works it is not the proper way to do it if your reel has a casting drag.

Setting the spool tension is fairly easy and once set shouldn't be changed.

1) Loosen the spool tension knob until you can slide the spool back and forth inside the reel housing.

2) Slowly tighten the spool tension knob, while rocking your thumb back and forth on the spool. You will feel the spool moving side to side.

3) Continue to tighten the spool tension knob until the spool stops rocking back and forth.

4) As the last step, back the spool tension knob off slightly (1/16th of a turn).

A properly set spool tension will allow the spool to rock but not slide.

This is very important to a reel that has been super tuned. By super tuning, all friction points have been polished to a mirror like finish. If you use the spool tension knob to adjust for casting, you will crank it down too tight and put a divot in the spool tension spacer creating a larger friction surface on the spacer and scare the end of the spool that has also been polished, this effectively takes away from the smooth castability that was accomplished with the Super Tune.

Always use your casting brake to control your cast If magnetic then crank it down not the spool tension knob. Always make sure your reel is properly cleaned and lubed at least annually.This will make your new reel or one that has been super tuned last much longer. Feel free to contact me if you have questions.

Bassman13

Bassman13,

First thanks for the contact information regarding reel repair, will be getting in touch with you soon.

Now regarding reel tension, I utilize an alternative method for adjusting reels because of fishing for varried species of fish and line weights.

I set tension based on lb test of line, I know this may overload the reel but this is how I do it.

Once I have the desired lb test line loaded on the reel and threaded through the rod eyes, I go outside and spool off approcimately 30 to 35 yards of line, tie it to the base of a tree. With the drag completly released I begin tightening and jerking the rod tip back towards me high in the air allowing the drag to slip and continue tightening until the drag slips with enough tension to fully load the rod.

I have had much success with this method and have never had a line break because of too much tension nor have I ever had to reset or tighten a drag while fighting a fish.

None of my reels are super-tuned and generally last a long time, I also never use the casting control on a reel as I have been baitcasting all my life and control the line spool during a cast with slight thumb pressure. Cast controls limit length of cast and cause major problems if casting in a strong wind.

Finally the best thing that one can do prior to cleaning and lubricating the reel is to completely release the drag prior to placing in storage, then reset the drag prior to the first fishing trip of the next season.

Texas Wrangler,
Good point, What I was mainly talking about is not the drag tension but rather adjusting for casting using the casting brake and not the tension knob.I have had quite a few people ask me how to set the tension (Casting knob) properly to help prevent backlash.I use my thumb to help control cast since most of my reels are "Super Tuned" and the spool turns smoothier and faster.I do the same on backing off the star drag if I am not going to use the reel for awhile and highly recomend doing that. This keeps from flatening the drag spring washers and helps keep the drag working proper longer.Let me know when you are ready for me to do your reels.

Bassman 13,

I apologize for the confusion, when and if I use the cast control feature, I set it by the weight being used. Tie on the lure or weight, release the spool letting it free fall, and adjust the cast control until the weight drops in a smooth steady motion to the ground or bottom of boat without backlashing upon impact.

Texas Wrangler,

I didn't know there was any other way than what you described.That's the number one way to keep from backlashing and to get the best distance out of your lure or bait.

Bassman 13

I was taught to do it the same way as Texas Wrangler. Are you saying this is not the proper way to adjust the reel? Even if you adjust the magnets or centrifugal break up as high as it will go you may get backlashes if you don't have an educated thumb or adjust the reel for the weight of the lure you are throwing. I have played with this a good bit over the years and found that adjusting for the weight of the lure does the most to reduce backlashes. I usally adjust mine with slightly less tension than Texas Wrangler talks about then rely on my thumb to do the rest. If you adjust the reel as Texas Wrangler indicated you can throw a bait and remove your thumb from the spool and it won't backlash. I usally have my magnetic brakes set about 50% but on several supertuned reels they are as high as 80%. If I am reading you correctly you are saying this is not the way to set-up the reel.