Mabel (1933 box saloon) has lost her drive again. I assume it is the key on the passenger side half shaft (again). This is twice in 10 years and more to the point twice in 1000 miles. Do I have to repalce the half shaft and hub, or should I try again and tighten the big nut even TIGHTER??? If the former who can you recommend in South East London to do the work?
If the nut wasn't done up tight enough last time, and it needs to be done up ridiculously tight, you may just have broken the key and a replacement key will do. However you may have damaged the slot in both the hub and shaft in which case that will need to be repaired or a new shaft and hub fitted. If you would like to email me I may be able to put you in touch with people who can do the job for you.
i also have a 1933 box,when i restored it i noticed the halfshaft keyways had opened up,i lapped the shafts and hubs with fine grinding paste until a uniform grey colour was achieved, degreased them and applied loctite when assembled, that was 15years ago,still going strong with no problems.
Well the good news is that I dismantled the hub and got the broken key out. The shaft and hub are scored but I thought I would try lapping the hub a little and reassembling anyway and in the process discovered the real problem. The castellated nut is bearing down on the end of its thread on the half shaft and not transmitting enough pressure onto the hub to make the necessary tight fit. So no matter how tight I do up the nut the drive is going through the key.
That won't do. So as a temporary measure I found a washer to take the nut back about a turn and was able to nip it up very tight with a fine ring spanner from father in law's collection.
This also had the advantage of bringing the split pin hole back into range of the castellations. However at the last sqeeze on the spanner I managed to shear off one of the wheel retaining studs againt which I was levering.
Mabel is now back in the garage rather down cast about this turn of events which preumably means removing the brearings and both bits of the hub in order to get an new stud in place?
Aylesford seems to be getting further away!
It is a bit late in the day, but thought I should finalize this thread with the good news. Austin 7 Services in Kirby Wiske sent me the wheel stud and rivets together with the usual bits for reassembling the hub but also a shim of thin metal sheet shaped to wrap around the end of the half-shaft. A little fettling got it to fit nicely and by keeping the hub just that little bit further up the half-shaft effectively replacing the metal removed by enthusiastic lapping over the years. I was able to make good use of Dave Waller's patent tools to stop the hub rotating and tighten the nut very, very tight; the constellations within range of the split pin hole once more. Job done.
The only sadness about the exercise was that I refilled the back axle with oil to the prescribed depth and it has been leaking out of the other side, meaning I will have to go through the hub rebuild on the driver side, after letting some oil out of the axle!